Sunwave Growth
Sunwave · Level 4

Big Job Helper

A working checklist for planning the big ones. For each job type: the questions to ask before you commit to anything, the parts and tools to have on the truck, and the things that need to be lined up ahead of time. Use it on site, not from memory.

Pair this with Complex Pricing. Every question here maps to hours, and hours are what decide whether a big job makes money. Work through these on site first, then price it.
Water Softener

Step 1 · Questions to ask

  • Is there sufficient space to route all the supply lines?
  • Where will the backwash discharge run to? Outside, floor drain, or mop sink?
  • Should there be pre-filtration for heavy sediment, or post-filtration for media fines?
  • Could the loud sound of the backwash cycle be an issue because of the location?
  • Where will it plug in?
  • Is there enough space for the brine tank as well?
  • Is the customer aware of how this will impact their water? Maybe a slight change in taste and feel.

Step 2 · Parts and tools list

  • Water softener
  • Sediment filter housings if that's part of the project, plus correct micron filters
  • 5 bags of salt
  • Correct pipe material it will be piped with
  • 1" corrosion resistant female threaded adapters to connect to the control head
  • 3/4" stainless steel female adapter for backwash
  • Enough 3/4" PEX to run the backwash pipe
  • Strapping for the pipe
  • Enough stainless steel valves, especially if there's any sort of bypass going in

Step 3 · Suggestions

  • Make sure to take your time on the setup process.
  • Read every step through in the manual for the setup, then go back through it as you take each step.
  • Make sure there's an outlet close enough for the cord to run to, maybe 10 ft away max.
  • Recommend us coming back in 6 months to check on how the system is performing and to maybe refill the brine tank.
Acid Neutralizer

Step 1 · Questions to ask

  • Is there sufficient space to route all the supply lines?
  • Where will the backwash discharge run to? Outside, floor drain, or mop sink?
  • Should there be pre-filtration for heavy sediment, or post-filtration for media fines?
  • Could the loud sound of the backwash cycle be an issue because of the location?
  • Where will it plug in?
  • Is the customer's water already hard, which means adding this will make it even harder and necessitate a water softener?
  • Is the customer aware of how this will impact their water? A little bit harder water, maybe a slight change in taste and feel.

Step 2 · Parts and tools list

  • Acid neutralizer
  • Sediment filter housings if that's part of the project, plus correct micron filters
  • 4 bags of calcite
  • Funnel for adding the gravel and the calcite to the tank
  • Correct pipe material it will be piped with
  • 1" corrosion resistant female threaded adapters to connect to the control head
  • 3/4" stainless steel female adapter for backwash
  • Enough 3/4" PEX to run the backwash pipe
  • Strapping for the pipe
  • Enough valves, especially if there's any sort of bypass going in

Step 3 · Suggestions

  • Make sure to take your time on the setup process.
  • Read every step through in the manual for the setup, then go back through it as you take each step.
  • Make sure there's an outlet close enough for the cord to run to, maybe 10 ft away max.
  • Recommend us coming back in 6 months to check on how the system is performing.
Tankless Water Heater

Step 1 · Questions to ask

  • Natural gas or propane?
  • What is the space like for mounting?
  • Routing for intake and exhaust?
  • Recirculating pump? Internal or external?
  • Is the gas line sized appropriately for a tankless water heater?
  • Where is the condensate getting run to? Do we need an acid neutralizer to pump it, or run it into a cast iron or galvanized drain line?
  • Is there space to run the intake inside?

Step 2 · Parts and tools list

  • The correct tankless heater
  • Tankless heater valve kit
  • Pipe for condensate, 1/2" CPVC
  • Gas flex hose
  • Gas valve
  • Acid neutralizer
  • Condensate pump
  • PVC for intake and exhaust, plus PVC fittings
  • Spray foam for the wall penetrations
CPVC fittings
  • 90s, street or regular
  • 45s, street or regular
  • Couplings
  • 1/2" plastic threaded adapter to connect to the condensate connection on the unit
Black iron fittings (1/2" or 3/4")
  • 3" nipples (x2)
  • 5" nipple
  • Cap for the drip leg
  • Coupling
  • Tee
  • 90 to connect to the heater

Step 3 · Suggestions

  • Make sure to change the orifice and set the dip switches properly for the fuel type.
  • Allow the customer to feel the temperature of the water before leaving the job.
  • Recommend us coming back in 1 year to check on how the system is performing and to do an annual flushing.
Sewer Line Repair / Replacement

Step 1 · Questions to ask

  • How long is the sewer line?
  • Where does the sewer line currently go into the house, and are we going to follow the same path?
  • How deep is the sewer line?
  • Does the sewer line go under a concrete slab, through a basement wall, or into a crawl space?
  • Are there other utilities that could make it more difficult? Gas, communications, power, or sewer?
  • What other obstacles should be considered? Trees, sidewalk, patios, pathways, driveways, buildings.
  • Is this for a municipal system or septic?
  • If it's municipal, is it getting replaced all the way to the tap, or is it a partial replacement?
  • Will the concrete saw be needed?

Step 2 · Parts and tools list

  • More than enough PVC pipe, correct size 3" or 4"
  • Couplings
  • Plastic for dirt placement
  • Ferncos or adapters to make connections to existing pipe
  • Hydraulic cement
  • Spray foam
  • Proper digging equipment
Always get extra fittings
  • 90s
  • Cleanout tees
  • Cleanout caps
  • 45s

Step 3 · Things to line up

  • Utility markings
  • Equipment rentals
  • Permits if necessary
  • Possibly drywall repair
Drain Repipes

Step 1 · Questions to ask

  • How many sinks, laundry rooms, shower/tubs, toilets, and mop sinks are there?
  • Is the house on a concrete slab, does it have a basement, or a crawlspace?
  • Where are most of the drain lines currently running? Walls, basement ceiling, slab, or crawl space, and how does that impact the repipe process?
  • What is the wall material, drywall or plaster?
  • Roughly how much drywall or plaster will need to be cut?
  • How many floors with plumbing are there?
  • Finished or unfinished basement?
  • What pipe material are we removing?
  • If there's a crawl space, is it tight or roomy, encapsulated or not?
  • Are the drain lines running from inside the vertical walls, or coming up through the floor to connect to the fixtures?
  • How much of the old system routing can be copied over to the new?
  • Will we need the tall ladder to access certain places?
  • Are there permanent pieces of furniture, shelves, or cabinets that would need to be removed or would impede access?
  • Where are the vents, and what will reconnecting to them look like?

Step 2 · Parts and tools list

  • The correct amounts of PVC: 1.5", 2", 3", and 4"
  • Tub waste and overflows
  • Toilet flanges
  • Traps for tubs, showers, and laundry
  • Strapping
  • Drop cloths
  • Auto-vents if needed
  • Cleanout fittings if needed
  • Washer box
  • Tubular traps for sinks
Fittings
  • 90s, street and regular
  • 45s, street and regular
  • 22s, street and regular
  • Different san tee sizes needed
  • Different wyes needed
  • Couplings
  • Ferncos or no-hubs
  • Connections for existing drains or vents
  • Shear bands
  • Bushings or pipe size adapters
  • PVC threaded adapters if going into cast iron

Step 3 · Things to line up

  • Drywall repair
  • Cleaning company
  • Scheduling for an additional tech to help

Step 4 · Suggestions

  • When planning out parts lists, start with the farthest out fixture and work your way back, making a fitting list for each fixture. That way you make sure you get enough fittings for each connection.
  • Then run down the mainline and make sure you have the necessary tees and wyes for each fixture connection.
  • Also make sure to think through running the venting as well.
Supply Line Repipes

Step 1 · Questions to ask

  • How many sinks, kitchens, laundry rooms, shower/tubs, toilets, mop sinks, hose spigots, and refrigerators with ice makers are there?
  • Is the house on a concrete slab, does it have a basement, or a crawlspace?
  • Where are most of the supply lines currently running? Walls, attic, basement ceiling, slab, or crawl space, and how does that impact the repipe process?
  • What is the wall material, drywall or plaster?
  • Roughly how much drywall or plaster will need to be cut?
  • How many floors with plumbing are there?
  • Finished or unfinished basement?
  • What pipe material are we removing?
  • If there's a crawl space, is it tight or roomy, encapsulated or not?
  • Are the pipes running from inside the vertical walls, or coming up through the floor to connect to the fixtures?
  • Is there a manifold system currently being used?
  • How much of the old system routing can be copied over to the new?
  • Will we need the tall ladder to access certain places?
  • Are there permanent pieces of furniture, shelves, or cabinets that would need to be removed or would impede access?
  • What kind of access is there to the shower valves, and are we going to replace them when we do the repipe?
  • Would we need to replace the line going up to the shower head as well?
  • Will the existing water heater work to reconnect to, or should replacement be suggested?

Step 2 · Parts and tools list

  • More than enough 3/4", 1/2", and 1" PEX
  • Correct type and quantity of stop valves
  • Rings, 90s, tees, and ball valves
  • Water heater connections
  • Hose spigots
  • Shower valves
  • Escutcheons
  • Risers for toilets and faucets
  • Washer boxes
  • Lots of drop cloths
  • Barb to PEX adapter
  • PRV
  • Ladder
  • Oscillating saw blades
  • Extra crimpers
  • Trash bags
  • Masks
  • Painters tape
  • Spade bits

Step 3 · Things to line up

  • Drywall repair
  • Cleaning company
  • Scheduling for an additional tech to help
Waterlines

Step 1 · Questions to ask

  • How long is the waterline?
  • How deep is the waterline?
  • Where does the waterline currently go into the house, and are we going to follow the same path?
  • What material is the waterline currently?
  • Is pulling the waterline an option based on the pipe material and distance? If so, how many pulls would it take?
  • Does the waterline go under a concrete slab, through a basement wall, or into a crawl space?
  • Are there other utilities that could make it more difficult? Gas, communications, power, or sewer?
  • What other obstacles should be considered? Trees, sidewalk, patios, pathways, driveways, buildings.
  • Will part of a sidewalk need to be removed to connect to the meter?
  • Will the concrete saw be needed?
  • If a pull is going to be attempted, what's the plan if it fails, and has the customer been primed appropriately for what might happen? What's the backup plan and what's needed to execute it properly?

Step 2 · Parts and tools list

  • More than enough black poly pipe
  • Necessary barb fittings
  • Plastic for dirt placement
  • PVC for sleeving
  • Fernco for sealing the sleeve
  • Hydraulic cement
  • Spray foam
  • Proper digging equipment

Step 3 · Things to line up

  • Utility markings
  • Equipment rentals
  • Permits if necessary
  • Tow truck
  • Possibly drywall repair
Not on this list? Plenty of other work is big enough to need this treatment, gas lines, wells and pumps, septic, remodels, commercial jobs, or anything you haven't done before. Use the same three steps: ask everything up front, build the parts list from the farthest fixture back, and line up whatever the job depends on before day one.